timundstruppi hat geschrieben:wo hast du den eingesetzt?
klopfsensor durch widerstand ersetzt? geht doch nicht! habe ich aber nicht ausprobiert!
ansauglufttemperatur? das machen einige
gruß tw
Hier komt die information die leider nicht mer auf den internet suruck su finden ist.
Ich hatte damals glucklicherweise ein kopie gemacht.
Für einige jahren war es noch on line complet documentiert mit foto's
Leider gibts die foto's nicht mer. Aber ich könte mal neue foto's
machen von meine steuergeraten wen viel interesse ist.
Der ganse tekst ist in Englisch. Ist nicht leicht aber wen mans 3 x liest
begreift man am ende welche methode die beste ist.
Der wiederstandshack / resistor hack:
"The resistor mod:
The resistor mod has a suitable resistor instead of the diode, the lower
resistance the higher the boost without fuel cut... A suitable resistor,
typically 475 ohms, is placed between pins 1 and 10 on the ECU pressure
transducer, which fakes the ECU into getting the value for a lower
pressure. This 1) make the fuel pump shutoff at a much higher point,
somewhere around 2.7 Bar, and 2) will advance timing across the board.
I have modified mine so I can set the value a bit higher as the timing with
475 ohm tends to be a little to much advance, especially on a hot day
under load. A fixed value closer to 600 ohm may be a better bet.
The resistor mod is simply soldering a resistor between pin 1 and pin 10
on the Pressure Transducer.
470 ohm is typical but is the lowest value to consider using, as anything
less will cause too great of a timing advance. Other values may be
considered suitable depending upon boost being obtained.
470ohm is good to about 25 PSI(over 2 Bar). A value closer to 600ohm
may be more suitable for more moderate boost levels, and less likely to
incur detonation and let the fuel pump kick out if boost levels around 2
Bar are reached, should a problem occur, such as a torn wastegate
diaphragm or leaky hose.
Since this modification also advances the engine timing over the entire
RPM range, which may induce hard starting, and worse, detonation at
high boost levels. It will also cause the digital boost readout to be
incorrect. However, the upside is the advanced timing generally gives
better performance, especially at lower RPMs. It is imperative to have
the knock sensor fully operational. Detonation will typically occur at 18
PSI and higher, depending upon engine load and ambient conditions and
quality of the fuel. I never use under 92 octane, unless absolutely necessary.
I will quote and agree with Steve Buchholz's comments here that, "The
zener clamps the input to the A/D so that the ECU never thinks it sees a
pressure above that point and thus does not activate the overboost
shutdown mechanism. Many people swear by this mod, claiming many
miles of trouble free service, but personally I would not recommend doing
it. As long as all is well it may be fine, but be sure to keep all of the car
in tip top shape at all times, because if you get something like a tear in
the WG diaphragm
things may change in a hurry."
Steve also states, "I would also like to speak against the thought of
putting some sort of an adjustable voltage divider in the boost signal to
the A/D on the ECU. The whole reason the ECU is there is to take inputs
on manifold pressure, engine RPM and throttle position and determine the
operating parameters of the engine ... ignition timing, WGFV position, and
yes if the fuel pump should be shut off. By scaling the voltage you are
causing the ECU to think that the engine is running at a different point in
the maps than it really is. This may not be that bad a thing, but it is not
likely that the timing parameters will be better at this operating point than
they would have been if the engine really knew where it was operating.
Realize that I don't have a problem with scaling the voltage out of the
pressure transducer to increase the active range available to the ECU, but
if it is done, the code in the ECU should have a commensurate change so
that it "understands" the new calibration."
I tend to agree with Steve overall, and suggest erring on the side of
caution if using the resistor mod. I have never really agreed with the
zener diode mod, as it seems to do no more than cutting the wire which
disables the fuel pump shutoff, a definite "no no" in my opinion..
I have been using the resistor mod for boost pressures to about 16 PSI
for over a year now. Other than the intercooler the only weakpoint I've
uncovered in the system is the hose going from the intercooler to the
throttle body, which is often referred to as the "Michelin Man" hose.
This hose tends to blow out at the bottom. Always carry duct tape as
these types of things may occur, but the tape will get you home.
