forum.group44.de | DAS Audi 100 & 200 (C3/C4/Typ44, A6 C4) Forum – Technik, Teile, Erfahrungen.

Hello everybody,
Can somebody sent some information ( genialul1@yahoo.com) about how to change belt and fix timing for a WH engine 1921cmc ? Any help will be appreciate. Thanks
Sure you can answer in German language, I understand a little.
Regards, George

hast post

Hi, Mathias thanks very much, you save me. The information are quite I have needed. Do you believe that it is possible to improve details because I can't read specifications?
I was worry because after accident I have found the toothed belt pulley broken. It is possible to be all OK if the engine was running at 1000 and has stopped suddenly?
Do you know how I can pull out the flywheel? The hexagonal head bolt is normal?

Hello George,

Please let me know which page you would like. I will send it by Email to you. The problem with my picture account is, that it reduce the scanned quality.

I did not know your engin. I have a troubel with my last car. The belt was damaged and jump 1 or 2 toth forwarde (5 cylinder 1,9 ccm). I was lucky, no damages at the cylinders or valves!

But this is not normal. I expect it will be a contact between cylinder and valves. This meanse you must open the engine and make a big job....
Please have a look to the following links:

For dismounting, you need a special tool or my be you would abel to loos the screw if you could make something which will be stop the main shaft at the cluch side.

http://forum.group44.de/viewtopic.php?t ... t=werkzeug
My be sombady find the treath about spezial tools, I couldn'd find it.

I hope this will be help.

Mathias

I have found markers approximately in the good position. Do you believe that the engine could have been damage in this situation? The engine is an WH, 5 cilinder, 1,9 l base as your perhaps and probably the belt has jump few toth.
You sugest that it is better to dismonting the engine to be sure that valves and cilinders are OK?
It is a picture where is show belt and markers from the engine.
Regards,
George

Hi Georg,

I do not understand what you mean with good conditions...

From my point of view, you have to possibilitys:

1. mount the new belt and make the right setup. After this turn the motor by hand. Use a big key and turn it at the bottom shaft (never turn an engine at the top shaft). Be very quide and listen. If everything feel good. Try to start the engine and check the presser of each cylinder.

2. open the engine and have a look to the parts inside. This is the savty way but contance a lot of more work (and mony).

Regrads

Mathias

Hi, I want to say that I have found the top shaft and bottom shaft near the right position and the belt is not damage. My problem is that top shaft has been broken in pieces.
I will follow your advice and first I will try to fix the belt to right setup and make a noise test. I appreciate very much your advice and efforts. Have you ever been in Romania?
Please don't forget to send a picture with belt position and markers.
George

Hi George,

No sorry I never been in Romania. Due to my job, I travel a lot hole over the world. But the eastern part is supported from my college.

I send you the pages which you requested by mail. I hope this quality would be good enough for you.

I’m so sorry but I do not have any pictures (which I made by my self) of it.

Did you have a look to the “Selbst-DOKU”? There are a lot of nice hints inside.

If you couldn’t find and you would be abel to make an small description, feel free to make at. I believe everybody will accept to have a English one instead of nothing.

I wish you look with your engine.

Mathias

The 1,9er was the best car which I had. Only the cluch makes a lot of trouble at this tiem.

Hello,
Today I have tested the engine and perhaps because seem to be OK, I decided to dismount the engine for a certain evaluation. It wasn't any contact between valves and cylinders. Thanks Good.
If I don't ask to much will you write some rules to fix the engine? I have heard that it is necessary to replace bolts. What is your opinion? Can somebody tell the bolt specifications for a WH engine? Over my spare part dealer is a total fog.
Thanks for e-mail. If you ever can come in Romania an Black See Coast will be a pleasure for me to be your host.
Regards,
George

Hello George,

Thats sound good. I believe you are very lucky know.

To visit you in Romania sounds good, but in the moment I do not plan to go to your area. But if so, I would contact you again.

I send you by mail a lot of additional pages. I'm so sorry but I only have this in German langages. I hope you would be able tio understand it.

To your questions:
Yes it strong recumended to use new screws if you opened the engine for the head. I only bought one time new srews because they are very expensive also in Germany. But I could not recumend it at all. I do not have the specification of it.

In page 190 you would find the right moment load for the screws. You must be consider the direct order for tightening. This is shown on page 13. If you loos the screws you should use the oposit order.

I hope it is understandabel what I discribe hear. If something unclear please do not hesistate to ask again.

See you

Mathias

Hi,
Thanks very much, all you have send to me is fantastic, I couldn’t find the page 18 and also details about how to assembly cylinder head (put in right position gasket and cylinder head too). On my engine bolts are with multi-spine socket head and I have found as tightening procedure 5 steps
1) 4kgf; 2)6Kgf; 3)-90degree +6 Kgf 4) 90degree 5) 90degree. I have heard that between it is necessary to let some time.
At page 190 is a procedure in 3 steps. What I should try? Have you any tips?
P.S. I have found new bolts.
Regards,
George

Avant hat geschrieben:Try to start the engine and check the presser of each cylinder.

meinst du hier compression test für jeden cilinder?

Hi, welcome Audi lover
At this moment the engine is dismounted. I have put the belt and try to check the pressure for each cylinder but my compression test didn't work properly and the results were irrelevant. So, I dismounted the engine ( because I want to sleep well) and made a visual check. All is OK to valves and cylinders. Have you any useful tips about how to put together gasket and cylinder head?

Hi George,

sorry I was on Buissenestrip the last week. So I couldn't gave you any aditional hints.

Did you solve your problems? Otherwise, please let me know and I try to sumarise it for you.

Regards

Mathias

Treser.info hat geschrieben:

Avant hat geschrieben:Try to start the engine and check the presser of each cylinder.

meinst du hier compression test für jeden cilinder?

Hi Treser.info,

jow, das hätte ich gemeint. Warum fragst Du.

Gruß

Mathias

Avant hat geschrieben:

Treser.info hat geschrieben:

Avant hat geschrieben:Try to start the engine and check the presser of each cylinder.

meinst du hier compression test für jeden cilinder?

Hi Treser.info,

jow, das hätte ich gemeint. Warum fragst Du.

Gruß

Mathias

weil ich mir nicht sicher war wast du meinst mit presser of each cilinder.
Ich dacht etwas mit die presser am ventil oder sowas.
Bei das word Presure wurde mir gleich klar sein das es um compression ging.

Hi Treser.info,

ach so .

Gruß

Mathias

On my engine bolts are with multi-spine socket head and I have found as tightening procedure 5 steps
1) 4kgf; 2)6Kgf; 3)-90degree +6 Kgf 4) 90degree 5) 90degree. I have heard that between it is necessary to let some time.
At page 190 is a procedure in 3 steps. What I should try? Have you any tips?

Better use NEW bolts because bolts scretch and if you use old bolts top can begin to leak . Bolts aren't expensive

Greetings to Romania from Finland
Juha
(ps. http://forum.group44.de/viewtopic.php?t=6789 )

Hi, everybody
To fix my engine I have asked for some tips before. It is somebody who can tell mell procedure to put in right position head cylinders and gasket before tighten head cylinder.
Also, please tell me if the v-belt pulley from crankshaft could be dismount in clock wise or anticlock wise. I have try in anticlock wise but I didn't win.

Regards,
George

Hi, how is weather in Finland because if you don't hurry you will not be able to use your car in next winter. You dismounted a lot of parts from your car (nice one really in picture). Good luck. George

Hi,
Nobody can help me with previous questions?Thanks
George

George hat geschrieben:Hi, everybody
To fix my engine I have asked for some tips before. It is somebody who can tell mell procedure to put in right position head cylinders and gasket before tighten head cylinder.
Also, please tell me if the v-belt pulley from crankshaft could be dismount in clock wise or anticlock wise. I have try in anticlock wise but I didn't win.

Regards,
George

No clock wise or anticlockwise.
You have to pul it of in a straicht line.
There is a piston inside that stops de pulley of rutning around on its axel or crankshaft.

For positoning you need to look to the three or four littel holes at the right front side of the gasket.
Better put in on without head and make marks with a black antiwipeout pensil.
Then put the head on and push the head gasket from the side when its nessesary to replace it.

Did you buy new headbolts or did you buy ARP headbolts?
For ARP I can explain you how to torq wright.
For the normal ones I have no idea.
Something with 1e 20nm 2e 60nm and 3e 90nm.
But I am not sure for these torq numbers for your specifice engine.

Treser.info hat geschrieben:

George hat geschrieben:Hi, everybody
To fix my engine I have asked for some tips before. It is somebody who can tell mell procedure to put in right position head cylinders and gasket before tighten head cylinder.
Also, please tell me if the v-belt pulley from crankshaft could be dismount in clock wise or anticlock wise. I have try in anticlock wise but I didn't win.

Regards,
George

No clock wise or anticlockwise.
You have to pul it of in a straicht line.
There is a piston inside that stops de pulley of rutning around on its axel or crankshaft.

Hi George, Hi Treser.info,

I believe Geroge menas the big screw in the center. I did not remember it, but I believ it is anticlockwise.

Regards

Mathias


Da sich hier sonst keiner an der Hilfe beteiligt und dasnicht die Regel für das Forum ist, gehe ich davon aus das die jenigen die wissen wie es geht mit dem English nicht klar kommen.

Vielleicht erbarmt sich ja jemand es in deutsch zu erklären und wenn George nicht klar kommt ggf. kann ich mich an der Übersetzung versuchen.

Ich denke die noch nicht zufieden gestellte Frage war: in welcher Richtung wird die Zentralschraube der Riemenscheibe von der Kurbelwelle gelöst?

Gruß

Mathias

Sorry, it is my fault. Indeed I have asked informations for the screw inside the main V-belt main wheel. Thanks

Did you buy new headbolts or did you buy ARP headbolts?
For ARP I can explain you how to torq wright.

Hi Treser, thanks for your help
Sorry, what means ARP headbolts? I have bought new headbolts but I have o problem. My provider brought o box with only ten headbolts (perhaps for a four-cylinder engine). I am waiting for a new delivery. He said that he can ask for more 2 extra headbolts but I supposed that it is better that all the headbolts should be from the same lot. Is it corect?
Regards,
George

George hat geschrieben:Did you buy new headbolts or did you buy ARP headbolts?
For ARP I can explain you how to torq wright.

Hi Treser, thanks for your help
Sorry, what means ARP headbolts? I have bought new headbolts but I have o problem. My provider brought o box with only ten headbolts (perhaps for a four-cylinder engine). I am waiting for a new delivery. He said that he can ask for more 2 extra headbolts but I supposed that it is better that all the headbolts should be from the same lot. Is it corect?
Regards,
George

Okay no I understand. Yes the bolts of anticlockwise as avant already stated..
Actualy al bolts at an Audi go off in anticlockwise.
Only Englisch cars like Jaguar have some clockwise undoing.
The nut is torqued with 350 NM. So it wil need some real power to get it off.
Mabe the garage who put it on used some red locktide what means that
you have first to heat the nut to 300 degrees before you get it lose
Put a long pipe at the tools you use for undoing the bolt.

ARP headbolts are much stronger than the serial ones. They used for dragraces etc.
Be sure that you get the serial ones from the same batch.
They need top be all same wight and lengt. Only 0,001 difference makes big problems afterwards.
First time you need to retorq 5 times at every bold before the treath pitch is at a normal rate.
Take no risk with the headbolts as these things are the most importand bolts of the 5 cilinder engine.
Wen you want to do it perfect buy a metal hadgasket and put ARP headbolts in.
The website who sells them is http://www.034efi.com/index.php?cPath=25

In stock engine,no need for ARP bolts.

juhakill hat geschrieben:In stock engine,no need for ARP bolts.

`
okay I understand that you wil use no turbo.
But stil look that you get the wright serial headbolts.

Thanks for your help Audi lovers. Now I believe that I have enough information about how to fix my engine. If I have other problems may I contact you by private message?
Special thanks for you Avant and don't forget my invitation -It is still available.
Viel GlucK
George

George hat geschrieben: Special thanks for you Avant and don't forget my invitation -It is still available.
Viel GlucK
George

Hi George,

it doesn't metter. It's only to kep one more TYP44 still alive

And also thanks for you invitation.

See you

Mathias